Upvc Casement Windows
Our upvc casement windows are available in a wide variety of styles and opening types, such as top hung, side hung or fixed. The traditional side hung casement windows are manufactured in the UK using the very latest technology ensuring the windows are suitable to cope with the British weather. Our white standard upvc casement windows are probably the cheapest windows in the UK.
Have a browse through our product range and select the type of window you require. Complete your chosen design by completing the necessary fields – enter your brickwork opening dimensions into the width and height fields in the calculator, then simply select your choices of finishes, glazing, ironmongery and other optional extras. Once the order is received the factory will immediately start the process of manufacturing your window and we aim to have it delivered to you safely in the following 7 days.
The standard double glazed units we supply with the standard upvc windows are fitted with Low E glass as standard. This glass is widely used within the industry and is coated with a microscopic metal coating that is designed to reflect the heat back into your home. This can result in an improvement of over 33% better thermal performance. If you want an even better improvement – triple glazing is available by special quote. We can offer many different specifications of glazing such as Solar Controlled glass – designed to keep you cool in the summer and prvent heat loss during the colder months. If you have special requirements on your new windows for your home – simply contact us by phone or drop us an email with your specifications and we will do the rest.
Quick Upvc Window Installation Guidelines
Remove the old frame
Once the old frame has been removed, brush away any loose debris or cement, leaving a clean opening ready to receive the new frame.
Frame with a cill
If you are fitting a frame with a cill, first decide if you are going to run the cill around the brickwork or cut it Flush to the finished width of the hole (see above). Whichever way you decide to do it, cut the cill to size with a fine toothed saw to fit tightly back to the inside edge where the old frame sat. You may have to remove the tongue of the internal window board first. Once the cill has been cut to size, apply a line of sealant along the cill upstand and across the frame platform at each end. Screw them together, through the bottom frame section along the centre line and into the cill.
Insert new frame
Offer the frame into the opening and using a spirit level, ensure the frame is level, vertical and not twisted before wedging into position.
Affix new frame
Drill through the side of the frame and into the brickwork to a depth just greater than your fixings. Fix firmly without distorting the frame sections, using packers to take up any space between the frame and the brickwork. Make sure that the frame is square by measuring the diagonals. Fixings should be no greater than 600mm apart and 150mm away from any frame joint. Hammer plugs are best, just tap them through the frame, then screw them up with a power driver (just enough to grip firmly, don’t over tighten). Generally the frame heads (tops) and cills are not fixed, however, on wide frames, if you feel the need, make sure you apply a liberal smear of sealant on any fixings that go through the bottom of the frame.
How to glaze the new window
Starting with one of the longest beads first, remove the glazing beads by pushing a sharp chisel or a rigid paint scraper between the bead and the frame joint at approximately the centre point. A sharp tap on the butt of the tool should allow the bead to be freed. It is most important to refit the beads in the same positions as they were removed, they may vary in length slightly, due to the manufacturing process. Place into position the glass packers approximately 100mm in from each corner (intermediate packers should be used if the double glazed unit is wider than 1200mm). Place the double glazed unit into the frame ensuring correct positioning on the glass packers. Starting on one of the shortest lengths, fit 3 of the beads moving around the frame using a rubber mallet, finally fitting the last bead by bending it into position. Remember to leave the last bead as a longer length, as it will be easier to bend into the frame.
Toeing and heeling
PVC-U doors and opening windows (sash) are heavy, and although the dead weight is supported on the hinge side when it is opened, there is nothing on the lock side to support the weight, and without the procedure of toeing and heeling the door will drop on the handle side. To prevent a door or sash dropping, the glass or door panel has to be braced diagonally corner to corner by the insertion of plastic packers slipped in the gap between the glass or panel and frame.
The door or sash on the lock side should be raised to the desired height and squared up with the door frame. On the hinge side place the packers at the bottom corner, whilst on the lock side, the packers go at the top (opposite) corner – place a dab of silicone under the packers on the door sides to stop the packers dropping. lt is advisable to use a glazing shovel when lifting the glass or panel. The packers should be placed approximately 150mm from the edge of the frame.